Kricket Soho

Expectations high, we enter Kricket on a Saturday evening and are seated downstairs at a communal table. Up or down, counter or communal, there isn’t a bad spot in this buzzy and relaxed Anglo-Indian small-plate eatery.

Service, surprisingly, is a little abrupt, but nothing can detract from the varied and wonderfully spiced food. My advice? Start with a cocktail (samphire margarita packs a punch, a lovely green hue) and a bowl of samphire pakoras whilst you peruse the menu. Crisp and moreish, these fried snacks will be gone before you know it.

The highlights? Goan Sausage Jamun: these mini sliders are dusted with icing sugar and filled with tender spiced meat, you’ll find that one just isn’t enough. And beautifully pink duck breast, perching on a coarse sesame and tamarind purée - refined, not to mention pretty on the plate.

A moist lump of hakes arrives surrounded by fragrant, thick gravy - perhaps a little over salted, as is the signature Kerala fried chicken. Even with these small blips, this is somewhere with much to offer. High expectations are met, but not quite exceeded.

Where to drink: Ham Yard Hotel